Appalachian Trail - Day 145 - Nahmakanta Lake to Hurd Brook Lean-To

Day: 145

Date: Saturday, 16 September 2023

Start:  Nahmakanta Lake (AT Mile 2157.7)

Finish:  Hurd Brook Lean-To (AT Mile 2179.8)

Daily Kilometres:  38.0 (Ascent 

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  3536.5

Weather:  Cool, windy and overcast all day with rain of varying intensity in the afternoon.

Accommodation:  Shelter 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts 

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals, Pop tarts 

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  None really 

Lowlight:  A miserable afternoon as we were hit by the outer edges of tropical hurricane Lee.  Strong cold winds and rain made for challenging hiking along a trail of which much was boggy or under water, either flowing or standing, and had the usual slippery rocks and roots to negotiate.  We were cold and saturated and our shoes/boots and feet were sodden.  Up ahead, Dave could hear Julie cursing at each new obstacle was encountered or she sank ankle deep into the mud once again.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We got going at 6:00am, happy that the rain from hurricane Lee had not yet arrived and we could pack a dry tent.  Our goal for the day was to get as close as we could to Abol Bridge, the end of the 100 Mile Wilderness, where there was a campground store, but that was 25+ miles away, so we were unlikely to make it all the way.

Hiking conditions weren't bad initially, though the trail was often the usual bogs, rocks and roots.  The wind was blowing strongly and there were the occasional spots of rain, but the hurricane impacts were less than anticipated and we made good progress, passing along the shore of Nahmakanta Lake then climbing over Nesundabunt Mountain before descending to a forestry road.

We chose the option here of following the road which reconnected with the AT a little over a mile later and missing some more bogs, rocks and roots on the AT.  Our justification was that with the full hurricane effects were yet to be felt, we wanted to get to a shelter just short of Abol Bridge so that we could camp out of the weather if necessary.  It didn't save much distance, but it did save time.

A bonus of our route was that we encountered a moose on the road.  It wasn't close, but we did get a good view of it before it sidled off into the forest.

After rejoining the AT and following the raging Rainbow Stream upstream for a few miles we stopped for a lunch break at a shelter.  There were quite a few hikers there, some waiting out the weather and in their sleeping bags, and only a few of us pushed on further.

The weather quickly deteriorated and it was a miserable afternoon (see above).  The only bright spot was that we were moving quickly, despite the trail conditions, to keep warm.  Apart from a brief break under an overhanging rock we kept walking for six hours and made it to our target shelter a little before 6:00pm, with only a short 3+ miles to go tomorrow morning to reach Abol Bridge.  Already at the shelter were friends Christine and Matthew and we chatted with them while we set up our sleeping gear, had dinner and changed into some dry warm clothing.

We feel like we are almost at the end.  We will spend most of the day at Abol Bridge tomorrow, assuming we can get a cabin for tomorrow night, then end our journey by summiting Mt Katahdin on Monday, a 15 mile hike.  Despite the conditions, we were pleased with how much ground we covered today.

Appalachian Trail - Day 144 - Cooper Falls Lean-To to Nahmakanta Lake

Day: 144

Date: Friday, 15 September 2023

Start:  Cooper Falls Lean-To (AT Mile 2138.7)

Finish:  Nahmakanta Lake (AT Mile 2157.7)

Daily Kilometres:  31.2 (Ascent 1047', Descent 1302')

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  3498.5

Weather:  Cool to mild and partly sunny

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals, Pop tarts 

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  None really 

Lowlight:  None really 

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We set out about 6:45am on a cool clear morning anticipating easier trail for the day and hopeful of covering a good distance.

It was mostly good trail for the day and there were some beautiful sections where the path meandered through lovely mixed conifer and deciduous forest on a bed of pine needles and autumn leaves.  We passed peaceful lakes and followed rushing streams for long periods.

However, there were other sections of trail where we were constantly negotiating the roots, rocks and bogs that have become a familiar part of our day.  It's hard and slow hiking with constant steps up, down and to the side, always looking where you place your feet and hoping your judgment of the depth of the mud or slipperiness of a root or rock is accurate.

We also had some unexpected and challenging fords today.  The first was quite scary because of the pace and depth of the water in one small part of the crossing and the second was even deeper (waist-level) though not as fast.

The fords slowed us down and we didn't get quite as far as hoped.  However, we ended up at a very pretty campground by Nahmakanta Lake around 6:15pm and had a beautiful sunset accompany our camp setup.  A bonus was the arrival of trail friends Christine and Matthew shortly after us.  We haven't seen them for a few days.

We feel like the Appalachian Trail is making sure our last days are not easy, with challenging fords and endless bogs that are not usually a feature of the trail, but it has been a very wet year.  And now, Hurricane Lee is forecast to hit the Maine coast overnight and bring rain and wind to the state tomorrow.  The coast will be hardest hit, but we are anticipating a wet and windy day in the woods and not looking forward to it.

Appalachian Trail - Day 143 - Gulf Hagas Mountain to Cooper Falls Lean-To

Day: 143

Date: Thursday, 14 September 2023

Start:  Gulf Hagas Mountain (AT Mile 2121.6)

Finish:  Cooper Falls Lean-To (AT Mile 2138.7)

Daily Kilometres:  26.4 (Ascent 3048', Descent 4551')

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  3467.3

Weather:  Mild with some fog and an early shower then mostly sunny.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts 

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals, pop tarts.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Early in our day's hiking we met some hikers going the other way, a couple and then, separately, a man, all of whom warned that the crossing of the East Branch Pleasant River that we had coming up during the day was very difficult and that they had heard the authorities were recommending by-passing it using an alternative route.  The man said that he had spent a very worrying 20 minutes with his foot caught between two rocks beneath the surface in the rushing river before being able to extricate himself.  This all happened yesterday before the hours of torrential rain we had last night, likely meaning the river would now be even higher.  Although we worked out an alternative route, it would have meant spending most of the day road-walking so we decided to chance the river crossing.  It was quite intimidating when we arrived - loud and rushing fast with the heavily tannin-stained water making it impossible to judge depths.  Making use of some nylon cord strung across the river between two trees, we both made a successful crossing, but it certainly had the adrenaline pumping at times.

Lowlight:  Very soon after the river crossing described above we encountered a huge puddle on the trail and Dave slipped on a wet log while trying to get around it and fell into the deep water, saturating half his body and pack.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

It rained torrentially for 3-4 hours after we went to bed and eventually some water seeped into our tent and some things got damp, but nothing too bad.  When the alarm went off at 5:00am, Dave, who had had a bad night, firstly with the after-effects of yesterday's wasp stings and then the heavy rain during the night, said he didn't feel up to trying a 20+ mile day as Plan A required (see previous posts) and suggested reverting to Plan B with a shorter mileage for the remaining days on the trail and having an extra hour's sleep.  Julie agreed so now we will finish the trail on Monday instead of Sunday.

After the extra hour's sleep, at least it was light enough to pack up without headlamps and we began hiking around 7:20am on a cool morning.  We were immediately climbing steadily to reach the first of three summits, West Peak, followed by, with descents preceding each, Hay Mountain and White Cap Mountain (3644'), the highest.  The latter had an open treeless rocky summit and we took a breakfast break and spread out the tent fly and other gear to dry.  The views were spectacular.  Soon afterwards we were joined by a "trail family" (or "tramily"), a group of six young hikers we have got to know quite well who also spread out all of their wet gear to dry.  It was an amusing sight.

From the peak we had a long descent during which time we decided to attempt the river ford coming up (see above) rather than take the bypass route.  The ford was challenging, but we made it across and had a lunch break on the other side.

Supposedly the AT is much easier in Maine once you get past White Cap Mountain, but it wasn't as easy as we hoped, with many large puddles and bogs, along with the usual rocks and roots.  But, at least, it wasn't raining and we made reasonable progress along the sun-dappled trail through pleasant early autumn deciduous forest.

We climbed and descended another mountain and passed by a large pond as the evening approached, eventually reaching our target campsite just before 7:00pm, by which time it was dark.  We found a good tent site and set up camp by headlamp, hoping that we can finish a little earlier tomorrow now we are on Plan B.

Appalachian Trail - Day 142 - Barren Mountain to Gulf Hagas Mountain

Day: 142

Date: Wednesday, 13 September 2023

Start:  Barren Mountain (AT Mile 2101.9)

Finish:  Gulf Hagas Mountain (AT Mile 2121.6)

Daily Kilometres:  26.2 (Ascent 4268', Descent 4478')

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  3440.9

Weather:  Mild, foggy in the morning and mostly overcast with occasional light rain.

Accommodation:  Tent 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Rehydrated meals

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles plus some wasp bites (see below); Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  None really 

Lowlight:  While looking for a place to cross a stream, Dave disturbed a wasps nest and was stung many times, mostly on the legs but also on the butt, groin and back.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

It rained a lot overnight as was evidenced by the huge deep puddles on the trail when we began hiking at 6:00am.  They were very difficult to negotiate, along with plenty of bogs and the usual rocks and roots, and the hiking was not enjoyable.  It was hard to see how we would cover the distance we wanted for the day when it took 3.5 hours to cover the first 4.5 miles.  We were in the cloud/fog and there were no views even though we were quite high.

From comments on our crowd-sourced navigation app, we were aware that there was an alternative trail that took us down off the mountain and reconnected with the AT in seven miles, missing the last section of the Chairback Range, so we took it.  We weren't going to miss anything in the weather and the trail conditions were so difficult we were unlikely to stay on schedule if we kept to the main trail.

Down the mountain the trail was better walking and our pace and mood improved.  Then there was some road-walking back to the AT which included finding our way across a raging stream where a bridge has been washed out and was being replaced.  While looking for a place to cross the stream, Dave disturbed a wasps nest and paid the price (see above).

Once back on the AT, it was easier walking until we reached the West Branch Pleasant River which had to be forded.  The rain of the past few days had the river running fast and wide and the ford was a little nerve-wracking, though we both crossed safely, getting wet to mid-thigh.

The trail then entered the Hermitage Preserve of the Gulf Hagas wilderness passing through some old growth forest and then climbed steadily following Gulf Hagas Brook upstream.  Conditions alternated between good and the usual rocks, roots and bogs, but we made reasonable progress and decided to push on over Gulf Hagas Mountain to a campsite on the other side which we reached at 6:30pm.

The tent site was much better than last night and we were congratulating ourselves as we washed before eating dinner when it began to rain, and is still raining steadily as the blog is written.  We ended up eating our dinner in the tent and are happy that nothing got too wet.

We've had enough rain, rocks, roots and bogs to last a lifetime.

Appalachian Trail - Day 141 - ME Route 15 to Barren Mountain

Day: 141

Date: Tuesday, 12 September 2023

Start:  ME Route 15 (AT Mile 2083.7)

Finish:  Barren Mountain (AT Mile 2101.9)

Daily Kilometres:  27.0 (Ascent 4534', Descent 3117')

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  3414.7

Weather:  Mild and overcast with almost continuous rain in the morning and an occasional sprinkle in the afternoon.

Accommodation:  Tent

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Cooked breakfast 

  Lunch:  Trail mix 

  Dinner:  Pop tarts

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported 

Highlight:  None really

Lowlight:  Wet, muddy and slippery trail.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We again enjoyed the hostel's big breakfast at 7:00am and were shuttled back to the trailhead in a packed van with about seven other thru-hikers in light rain at about 8:15am.  The hostel co-owner and driver, a former thru-hiker (and English Lit teacher), gave us a spiel about the 100 Mile Wilderness and a few short poems about the trail and how life-changing it can be.  Impressive!

For our last 100+ miles to the trail's end on Mount Katahdin, we have a Plan A, that sees us finish in six days on Sunday, and Plan B that sees us finish in seven days on Monday.  Plan A is relatively aggressive, but we really would like to finish on Sunday so for today our goal was 17 miles which we knew would be challenging given our late start and knowledge that the first two days of the 100 Mile Wilderness were reputed to be difficult.  If we can stick to the schedule for the first two days our confidence will be high.

For the morning we decided to hike non-stop the six plus miles to Little Wilson Falls which took us the best part of four hours.  The trail was tough with ups and downs, bogs and slippery roots and rocks.  In particular, the wet slate was treacherous and we had to take great care.  At the first creek crossing Dave slipped and fell half into the water which made him very unhappy.  All the while it was raining with varying intensity and as we leapfrogged some of the other thru-hikers we joked about how much we were all enjoying ourselves.  Misery loves company, and it was good to know that nobody was having a good time.

For the next section, there was an alternative route of about the same distance, including a long roadwalk, that avoided two significant fords and we decided to go that way.  A number of the other thru-hikers we met during the day made the same choice.  The roadwalk was along a quiet forestry road which was pleasant but the linking track that took us back to the AT had long stretches of extremely boggy and unpleasant trail.

We rejoined the AT about 4:00pm and made the choice to try and get over Barren Mountain and to a shelter/campsite on the other side before stopping for the night.  This would be a couple of miles beyond our target for the day, but there was no water in between (and we didn't want to add water to the weight of our already heavy packs for the climb) and it would likely be dark by the time we reached there.

The climb proved slower than we hoped and provided just one hazy view.  By the time we reached the summit of Barren Mountain (2670') it was almost dark and we decided to camp without water or cooking dinner rather than continue on the difficult trail in the dark.  We found a barely adequate space for a tent near the summit soon after 7:00pm, set up the tent and crawled in, still very dirty from the muddy trail with only some wet wipes to clean ourselves before getting into our sleeping bags.  Not a good start to our last five or six days, and more rain forecast for tomorrow.

We passed the 2100 Mile mark today.

Appalachian Trail - Day 140 - Day Off in Monson

Day: 140

Date: Monday, 11 September 2023

Start:  ME Route 15 (AT Mile 2083.7) but staying at Monson.

Finish:  ME Route 15 (AT Mile 2083.7) but staying at Monson.

Daily Kilometres:  0

GPX Track:  Click here and here for Julie’s Strava & Photos from her walks around Monson today.

Total Kilometres:  3387.7

Weather:  Dreary and overcast with occasional rain.

Accommodation:  Hostel

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Cooked breakfast and pancakes.

  Lunch:  Ham & cheese rolls.

  Dinner:  Pizza, brownie & ice-cream 

Aches:  Nothing to report.

Highlight:  A relaxing day at the hostel contemplating, with fellow thru-hikers, our last week on the trail.

Lowlight:  None really.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

At 7:00am we joined our fellow guests at the hostel for the cooked breakfast for which the hostel is renowned.  It was good and filling and some of us sat around for a while afterwards chatting about this and that.  While most of the 20+ people staying here are thru-hikers, there are also several cyclists as the town is also on a long distance mountain/gravel-bike route.

We then picked up the large box of food we had mail-ordered to the hostel from Walmart just in case they didn't have what we wanted for the next 5-6 days and repacked it for hiking.  After that we walked down to the volunteer-run Appalachian Trail Information Office in town where a very patient lady explained everything we needed to know (hopefully) about the 100 Mile Wilderness ahead of us, including problematic river/stream crossings, and the somewhat officious process for getting approval to camp near the base of Mt Katahdin, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, and approval to climb it.  Weather could always be an issue for the latter.

For the rest of the day, Dave spent time on admin, planning and reading while Julie went for some walks locally.  Of all the hikers staying at the hostel, she is the only one who had any interest in doing such a thing on her day off.

For dinner, we bought some take-out from the nearby gas station cafe and afterwards finished packing for our return to the trail.  After breakfast tomorrow, there is an 8:30am shuttle back to the trailhead.  Sadly, a lot of rain is forecast for the coming week.  Internet coverage will be sparse, so it may be a week before the next blog updates.

Appalachian Trail - Day 139 - Bald Mountain Pond to ME Route 15

Day: 139

Date: Sunday, 10 September 2023

Start:  Bald Mountain Pond (AT Mile 2065.8)

Finish:  ME Route 15 (AT Mile 2083.7)

Daily Kilometres:  30.0

GPX Track:  Click here for Julie’s Strava & Photos

Total Kilometres:  3387.7

Weather:  Mild, overcast and showery.

Accommodation:  Hostel 

Nutrition:

  Breakfast:  Pop tarts 

  Lunch:  Trail mix

  Dinner:  Bacon cheeseburgers & fries apple crumble & ice-cream.

Aches:  Dave - the usual niggles; Julie - nothing reported.

Highlight:  Reaching Monson, the last town near the trail for northbound thru-hikers and the start of the 100 Mile Wilderness.

Lowlight:  A couple more falls for Dave, but no damage done.

Pictures: Click here

Map and Position: Click here for Google Map

Journal:

We woke at 5:00am and were hiking by 6:00am on a cool calm morning.  During the first half hour the sun emerged over the pond to our right and shafts of brilliant orange sunlight angled through the forest creating a magical effect.

We were on a mission again today, with 18 miles to go until ME Route 15 from where we intended to go to the village of Monson and stay in a hostel for two nights.  The hostel ran shuttles from the trailhead every two hours and we figured that if the terrain wasn't too bad and we didn't mess around we could be there in time for the 4:00pm shuttle.

Our first challenge for the day was to ford Bald Mountain Stream where we both got at least one foot slightly wet despite taking great care.  Knowing there was another ford coming up across the Piscataquis River where the water was likely to be thigh-deep, we decided to keep our feet dry and took a suggested alternative roadwalk that was slightly longer.

As the morning progressed the sky became ominously grey and it began to rain while we took our first break, though it didn't last too long.  The majority of the roadwalk was along a traffic-free forestry road that wasn't very interesting but, on the plus side, we made good time.  We reconnected with the AT around 11:30am, having done about 12 miles in total and stopped a mile further on for a lunch break.  Although the roadwalk was a welcome change from the trail, it was nice to be back on the trail which, generally, was pleasant walking despite the occasional sections of rocks, roots and bogs.

Our last five miles for the day involved a gentle climb over the shoulder of Buck Hill and a heavier rain shower which made us glad we were staying in a hostel for tonight.  Rain showers are forecast to continue overnight and into tomorrow.

We reached Route 15 around 3:20pm and, after checking by phone with the hostel that we would have until 4:00pm for a shuttle, decided to try hitch-hiking and were picked up about five minutes later for the four mile drive into Monson.

After checking into the hostel, which seems to have a lot of hikers in residence (20+?), we were shown to our room and later had showers and did the laundry.  For dinner, we walked down to the local gas station and bought some take-out, eating it back at the hostel.  A few late thru-hiker arrivals included Matthew and Christine and some other hikers we know, and we were also introduced to an Australian girl from Sydney who is also staying here and on the final leg of her Appalachian Trail hike.

We were both tired and had an early night, satisfied with how the day has turned out.